Blade 150DX Rebuilt it, now runs bad.

China Import Engines

Blade 150DX Rebuilt it, now runs bad.

Postby Red-85-Z51 » Mon Feb 23, 2009 3:43 am

Got one at work, really has me stumped.

It's brand new, had a blown gasket, leaked out all the oil and blew the top end. I put on a new piston, wrist pin, rings, cylinder, etc, gaskets and all that good stuff...new plug.

Initially it started okay but was a hard idle cold, like most are. When I tried to test it out, it would buck and jerk, stumble and die.

I pulled the carb, cleaned the main, idle, and pilot jets with great care, and I am getting fuel flow.

The timing is dead on, I checked it 3 times, and the dots are lined up perfectly.

It's got good spark, and fresh gas...and good compression considering it isnt broken in at all. It refuses to idle now though, at least no more than 10-15 seconds. If you hold the gas down some it will run at a high idle fine. If you blip the throttle it is okay. If you roll the throttle down and hold it, it will take off very breifly, start stuttering and die.

Im going ot try another new plug on Tuesday, beyond that, Im going to have to starting replacing the coil, and coil pickup...

Any ideas?
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Postby nvmyengine » Mon Feb 23, 2009 9:53 pm

flywheel key, doesnt seem like it would be that, sounds like a coil problem to me, i have a roto tiller that just doesnt cooperate with me, it will run then sputter and just totaly reek havok
my rides-
mtd mimi bike
garden tractors

can you believe that i have over 2000 posts
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Postby The tech guy » Tue Feb 24, 2009 6:13 am

I do know Ive had a few in the shop with bad electric chokes. I know they can be tested, but not positive on how. I normally pull one off another engine and walla its fine.Double check your air lines for the carb. or the plastic "Y" fitting. Those need to be free of garbage too. Why am I telling you all this? I know youve probably done this all before!!! Oh yeah on your coil. The two wires for that go underneath the motormount, check to see if maybe the wire is cracked underneath the housing. Ive had a couple that way. You couldnt tell because the wires werent exposed.
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Postby Red-85-Z51 » Wed Feb 25, 2009 1:10 am

Was a defective Z9Y Champion plug, right out of the box it was bad. Caused the misfire and lack of quality running.

Unfortunately my success was shortlived...once I was able to warm it up, I found the original cause of the engine failure...a hiarline crack in the cylinder head on the bottom at the oil feed jacket....vomits oil when hot, runs into the plastic shroud, then onto the frame and exh. pipe..

New head on the way...

Really disappointed in Blade...This was a factory defect, and them and their warranty company were hesitant at first to rebuild the engine because "They should have noticed the oil leak" and "checked the oil".

Well having seen the oil leak now firthand, I can say that if I wasnt on a clean shop floor, I wouldnt have noticed right off myself.

Im so sick of these POS chi-com 150 motors, I swear I feel so sorry for all the people that ar dropping 2K+ on these buggys with these engines, they are nothing but trouble. Fragile electronics, finicky CV carbs, electric chokes...and not to mention the cylinders are taper honed, and the pistons are tapered right out of the box...the fit is terrible and I dont know how they even run.

Ive got rebuilding one of these things down to an art...and have made a few custom tools for fixing various degrees of blown engines...like...

When the motor goes so low on oil the wrist pin sizes to the rod...you use an air saw to cut the crown of the piston and rings, then use a chisel to split the piston in half, then use a custom puller to pull the wrist pin out of the rod.

Then use some sandpaper on a dowel and gently cleanup the small end of the rod.

Beats splitting that aweful crankcase to replace the crank/rod and all those seals and gaskets..
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Postby Razbarlow » Wed Jan 13, 2010 8:32 am

I HATE Champion plugs ! My .02 is to avoid them like the plague in small engines ! At the tender age of 10 years old I got my first motorcycle Honda S90. I tried and tried and tried to get it to run right . Plug after plug , wouldn't run right . I got so fed up I gave it to my uncle . he went to the parts store and all that had in stock was an NGK.
He took it home and it started right up and purred like a kitten.

GUESS WHAT BRAND OF PLUG I WAS REPLACING ?

Every since then I hate Cham pee on !

My .02,

Duc
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Postby kliff » Mon Mar 08, 2010 8:54 am

Red-85-Z51 wrote:Was a defective Z9Y Champion plug, right out of the box it was bad. Caused the misfire and lack of quality running.

Unfortunately my success was shortlived...once I was able to warm it up, I found the original cause of the engine failure...a hiarline crack in the cylinder head on the bottom at the oil feed jacket....vomits oil when hot, runs into the plastic shroud, then onto the frame and exh. pipe..

New head on the way...

Really disappointed in Blade...This was a factory defect, and them and their warranty company were hesitant at first to rebuild the engine because "They should have noticed the oil leak" and "checked the oil".

Well having seen the oil leak now firthand, I can say that if I wasnt on a clean shop floor, I wouldnt have noticed right off myself.

Im so sick of these POS chi-com 150 motors, I swear I feel so sorry for all the people that ar dropping 2K+ on these buggys with these engines, they are nothing but trouble. Fragile electronics, finicky CV carbs, electric chokes...and not to mention the cylinders are taper honed, and the pistons are tapered right out of the box...the fit is terrible and I dont know how they even run.

Ive got rebuilding one of these things down to an art...and have made a few custom tools for fixing various degrees of blown engines...like...

When the motor goes so low on oil the wrist pin sizes to the rod...you use an air saw to cut the crown of the piston and rings, then use a chisel to split the piston in half, then use a custom puller to pull the wrist pin out of the rod.

Then use some sandpaper on a dowel and gently cleanup the small end of the rod.

Beats splitting that aweful crankcase to replace the crank/rod and all those seals and gaskets..


Some folks love 'em, some hate 'em. I kinda like 'em myself. I here ya about tools too, it it requires a special tool, you're gonna make it.I even fabbed my own fly cutter and fixture for boreing out the 59cc cases for BBK kits, sorta like a 7/8 scale of the cutter I use on the 150 cases. As for case splitting, been doing it on so many different types of engines, I don't even think twice about it.

You're braver than I though. Once I've had any seizure, wrist pin, crank pin, or main, that crank is trash, I replace 'em. Usually up grade to a 2mm stroker, with a 59mm BBK that I mill .030" off the top of rhe piston .... 170cc, that screams!

PS, I never run anything but NGK Iridium plugs, 6.97 at Auto Zone
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