DIFFERENT CHAIN SIZES- explained

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DIFFERENT CHAIN SIZES- explained

Postby Red-85-Z51 » Wed Apr 18, 2007 8:50 pm

I see some posts asking about different chain sizes, what will fit what, and waht wont fit what..

#35 Chain will ONLY fit #35 sprockets, no questions asked.

#41 Chain will only fit #41 sprockets, #40 sprockets are too wide.

#420 will fit on #41 sprockets, its just a little bit heavier duty with a larger pin.

#40 Chain will fit on #41 sprockets, it is basically the same as #420, except it has wider Rollers, it is considerably heavier duty than #41.







#35-

3/8" pitch

3/16" Roller diameter, 3/16" Roller width

1/8" pin dimater

-------------------
#41

1/2" Pitch

5/16" Roller dimater, 1/4" Roller Width

1/8" Pin diameter

-------------------
#420

1/2" Pitch

5/16" Roller Diameter, 1/4" Roller Width

5/32" Pin Diameter
-------------------
#40 Chain

1/2" Pitch

5/16" Roller Diameter, 5/16" Roller Width

5/32" Pin Diameter
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Postby pointman » Thu Apr 19, 2007 5:02 pm

Excellent post I searched for this info on a few other sites about six months ago with no sucess I ended up getting my info from the yamaha dealer in town this should help many people.
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Postby benl » Thu Apr 19, 2007 6:43 pm

nice explanation red!
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Postby Red-85-Z51 » Thu Apr 19, 2007 8:35 pm

No problem guys, have fun with it!

Ive found #41 to be adequate for most anything Go kart related, Ive never seen a chain "break" from too much power or stress, although I have seen Master links Fail.

I dont have alot of experience with #35, but it is the standard in Kart racing, and those engines make over 25hp, rarely ever see a failure.

#420 is kinda the odd man out.. If #41 isnt enough, people usually step right up to the #40.

#40 is the beast. Heaviest in weight, largest pins, widest width...very difficult to break!

As for tension, a rule of thumb is to have about 1/2" to 3/4" up and down play in the middle of the chain, between the 2 gears.

For lube, use a good chain oil, but NOT chain wax, it clumps, makes a mess, and isnt efficient.

I crock my chains about every 5 hours of use. Remove the chain (s) and soak them in Kerosene. Then wipe or blow dry with an air gun. put some fresh motor oil in a pot and put it on an outside grill on LOW, or in an old crock pot, for a while, and let it get between the pins and the rollers, and in between the tie straps and the links. It makes a chain last alot longer.

Just drizzeling oil on a hot chain isnt enough, and most of it slings off or falls off.

After you crock the chain, let it drip for a few hours, or overnight. Then install. After the first use, apply a coat of chain lube.

Use motor oil on your clutches, NOT your chains.

For centrifugal clutches, it is wise to remove, disassemble, and clean with brake parts cleaner every 5 hours of use. Take some emory paper ot the shoes, and inside the drum. Clean the Bushing, and soak it in oil, look for wear, and replace parts if neccesary.
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Postby WAB » Wed Apr 25, 2007 10:56 am

Nice explanation and thanks for the info!

Right before this was posted, I had ordered a chain & clutch off eBay. So, now I have a #35 chain & clutch to resell since the #35 chain is too small for my sprocket. I need to measure my old chain and see what it is. Its bigger (wider and larger links) than the #35.



Edit: I bought this one. http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi ... &rd=1&rd=1

Think I should I just get a #35 sprocket and have it all #35 insted of whatever it is now?? Sasme sellers sells #35 sprockets.....
He sells 66t, 60t, 72t. Larger is better for acceleration, right?
Last edited by WAB on Wed Apr 25, 2007 11:07 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Postby KJ » Wed Apr 25, 2007 11:07 am

RED... Just received a "Very Helpful Poster Award" for this thread. Nice job!
We take it from all directions...
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Postby Red-85-Z51 » Thu Apr 26, 2007 12:47 am

KJ wrote:RED... Just received a "Very Helpful Poster Award" for this thread. Nice job!


Thanks KJ, thats Cool!

I get asked about chains and sprockets all the time, people think bigger is better, heavier is better..Then they get all confused trying to switch from one size to the next and mess up their ratio...

Good to finally put pen to paper, so to speak, and explain it all.
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#420 Chain Replacement

Postby ToddHanson » Mon Jul 23, 2007 1:36 pm

[quote="Red-85-Z51"]

#420 is kinda the odd man out.. If #41 isnt enough, people usually step right up to the #40.


I crock my chains about every 5 hours of use. Remove the chain (s) and soak them in Kerosene. Then wipe or blow dry with an air gun. put some fresh motor oil in a pot and put it on an outside grill on LOW, or in an old crock pot, for a while, and let it get between the pins and the rollers, and in between the tie straps and the links. It makes a chain last alot longer.

Can I replace a #420 chain with #40? I realize #40 is wider, might that allow it to "jump" off more easily?

Can diesel fuel be substituted for Kerosene?

Thank you.
-Todd
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Re: #420 Chain Replacement

Postby Red-85-Z51 » Mon Jul 23, 2007 2:29 pm

ToddHanson wrote:
Red-85-Z51 wrote:
#420 is kinda the odd man out.. If #41 isnt enough, people usually step right up to the #40.


I crock my chains about every 5 hours of use. Remove the chain (s) and soak them in Kerosene. Then wipe or blow dry with an air gun. put some fresh motor oil in a pot and put it on an outside grill on LOW, or in an old crock pot, for a while, and let it get between the pins and the rollers, and in between the tie straps and the links. It makes a chain last alot longer.

Can I replace a #420 chain with #40? I realize #40 is wider, might that allow it to "jump" off more easily?

Can diesel fuel be substituted for Kerosene?

Thank you.
-Todd


The roller width is the only real difference between the two, with #420 being slightly wider. Id stick with the #40 to keep it tight on the sprockets.

Crocking is good for chains, I do it every so often, but when riding in dirt, the chains wear so fast and need to be repalced so often that its really just delaying the inevitable.

Yes, diesel can substitute Kerosene in this instance.
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Postby 40oz » Mon Jul 30, 2007 4:49 pm

This topic has helped me out a lot! Thanks Red. I have a go kart that I converted to an art car for Burning Man. Last year I worried about the size 41 chain because with the weight of the art car and fully loaded with people, we had to be topping well over 1000lbs. This year we are adding a trailer that will hold 4 more people and the size of the chain worried me. Just like your post states, the 420 fit right up. Not sure if a 420 will work either with the new loads, however, it looks like we have better odds now.

Thanks,

Ken
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Postby Red-85-Z51 » Mon Jul 30, 2007 6:19 pm

Glad to help, #420 is tough stuff.

There are different GRADES of chain though, you've got "chinese" quality, and Industrial quality, and some places even have "agricultural" quality.

Chinese is good for a gokart, for a while, it stretches pretty bad, and needs replacement every so often, Industrial is harder, a little more solid, and will last a long long time on a Gokart.

Agricultural is expensive and is designed to be used for hours and hours at a time, for weeks and months, without service.
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Postby eaterofdog » Wed Sep 26, 2007 4:40 pm

Here in central Florida, we have this fine sugar sand that will coat your chain the moment you leave the road. The stuff will cake onto any oiled chain and form an abrasive paste. It eats chains and gears like mad. Makes your chain look like a dirty sugar donut.

I now buy (nickle or ti) plated chains and lube them with dry moly spray. Take the chain and soak it in solvent to remove all oil. Let dry. Install the chain. Slowly spin the chain and spray the moly right between the plates, on each side, all the way around the chain. Make sure you get down between the plates so it will get to the pin! Let dry before running. Give the chain another quick shot every two hours.

This leaves the chain clean and dry and it will not pick up dirt. If you get a plated chain, you will not have many problems with rust.

Not for wet areas. My kart stays dry.

BTW moly spray is the same stuff that is used in torque convertors. It ain't cheap.
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Postby speed shop » Tue Mar 25, 2008 2:39 pm

sweet thanks
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Postby a1moldmaker » Sun Jun 07, 2009 9:22 pm

can anyone recommend what type of chain would be best for grass dirt and a fair amount of mud
i have #35 chain and need to replace it and one of the jack shaft sprockets so i want to do it with the longest lasting type of chain

also when i look up chains why do i find 35 chain with many different pitches

this is what the manual calls for on my kart

#35 x 54p
#35 x 86p
why 2 different pitch and what does it mean?
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Comet Torque Converter #35 with 3/4" Bore
TAV2 with 3/4" bore and #35 sprocket.
The TAV2 has a Cast Backplate
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Postby a1moldmaker » Wed Jun 10, 2009 8:59 pm

can anyone explain this???????
maybe the staff.
Bruce Green
Manco Coyote ll 415-241 with 6.0hp TECUMSEH

soon to add this
Comet Torque Converter #35 with 3/4" Bore
TAV2 with 3/4" bore and #35 sprocket.
The TAV2 has a Cast Backplate
Part #400843-2 & 400841-2
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Postby Red-85-Z51 » Mon Jul 20, 2009 8:57 pm

a1moldmaker wrote:can anyone explain this???????
maybe the staff.


#35 is the pitch, this means that your kart requires 35 chain. The only other thing those other numbers can mean are number of chain links in the chain, or the number of teeth on the drive gear (which would effect chain length).
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Postby asdfasdf128 » Tue Oct 06, 2009 9:46 am

I got a new kart yesterday, and was considering changing out the sprocket and chain. The manufacturer website says that its a "90 Tooth Aluminum Rear Axle Sprocket" and then in another spot it says "Offroad 96 Tooth Rear Axle Gear". How do I find out what type/size chain/sprocket to use?
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Postby Red-85-Z51 » Fri Oct 09, 2009 8:00 pm

asdfasdf128 wrote:I got a new kart yesterday, and was considering changing out the sprocket and chain. The manufacturer website says that its a "90 Tooth Aluminum Rear Axle Sprocket" and then in another spot it says "Offroad 96 Tooth Rear Axle Gear". How do I find out what type/size chain/sprocket to use?


Count the teeth on the drive sprocket.

Sounds like the 96 was an optional gear for more torque for off roading.
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