How to remove a Torque Converter

[benl]

I agree nice job with all the pics and step by step instructions.
but i agree with Glenn, i dont like the idea of putting anything into the cylinder either, i would just put a strap wrench around the pulley to hold it.
but again, a great step by step tutorial.
Ben

[MEMPHIS]

this is a warning to every one DO NOT PUT THE ROPE IN THE CYLINDAR!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[Red-85-Z51]

this is a warning to every one DO NOT PUT THE ROPE IN THE CYLINDAR!!!!!!!!!!!!!

And why not?

The force exerted on the rod and rotating assembly is nothing compared to what it has to handle at high rpms. The harmonics it must endure are unimaginable, it can handle 15-20 ft/lbs.

[nvmyengine]

what if i gets broken off or something then youd have a problem

[napalaz]

this is a warning to every one DO NOT PUT THE ROPE IN THE CYLINDAR!!!!!!!!!!!!!

And why not?

The force exerted on the rod and rotating assembly is nothing compared to what it has to handle at high rpms. The harmonics it must endure are unimaginable, it can handle 15-20 ft/lbs.

absolutely correct no problems doing it like Ork suggested

[Red-85-Z51]

what if i gets broken off or something then youd have a problem

Not sure HOW it would get cut off, but you'd use a flexible retriver to get it out, or you might *gasp* have to pipe the head to retrieve it.

But ive NEVER seen it get cut off, and I cant figure out how it could get cut off.

Use a new nylon rope and you're good to go.

Put it this way..if it gets cut off, no big deal.

If you somehow bust the rod or crank..or piston taking the flywheel nut off, or the TC bolt off, you had a mechanical problem anyway, just be glad it didnt break while running.

[MEMPHIS]

yeah but if it did get cut off and u did not know it, then u have that to get stuck on something!
just use ur hand. and it is a pain to do all that work.

[Red-85-Z51]

yeah but if it did get cut off and u did not know it, then u have that to get stuck on something!
just use ur hand. and it is a pain to do all that work.

"all that work"

I can have a head off, gasket scraped, head de-coked, piston and valves de-coked in less than 30 minutes on just about any engine using only basic tools...

Its actually good to remove your head once a year to de-coke it, especially on a Gokart.

If it did get cut off, you'd know it.

I broke a bone in my left hand trying to remove a bolt in a crank...not fun when your hands are what put money in your pocket.

Use the rope method, it actually works.

In fact for Chainsaws they make a plug that you screw into the plug port to stop the piston for removing the flywheel nut or clutch nut, just another variation of the same idea.

[Red-85-Z51]

thats awesome.

[MEMPHIS]

look man maybe u need some better hands!!! just kidding
but it is all unnessary......i'm sry!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! it just be that way.

[Offroadkarter]

Ok who started up the arguements this time!


youknow some people dont have impact wrenches to zip it off, as long as you do this on the compression stroke, youll be fine

[Red-85-Z51]

look man maybe u need some better hands!!! just kidding
but it is all unnessary......i'm sry!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! it just be that way.

unless you have a Boa wrench and want to take the shroud off to get at the flywheel, or you are brave enough to use an impact wrench on a little bolt...it is

Ive got a few impact wrenches...I use them to remove ball hitches, blade bolts, lug nuts, suspension parts...but to put it on a 1/2" or 9/16 bolt in the end of a crank is just tempting murphy.

Just put a little rope down the plug hole on the compression stroke..bring the piston up, and go to work.




but yeah, make sure its on the compression stroke or you might break a rocker or valve head (on an OHV engine)

[MEMPHIS]

and see for people who don't know what the compession stroke is then u make have made them buy and redo lotsa stuff.
if someone needs help with a tav just pm me.

[Red-85-Z51]

and see for people who don't know what the compession stroke is then u make have made them buy and redo lotsa stuff.
if someone needs help with a tav just pm me.

If someone doesnt know what "compression stroke" is, they have no business trying removing a Torque Convertor.

Those are the types of people that put lots of money in my pocket. The type of people that fill the crankcase with gas, the type of people that pour oil into the gas tank...Gotta love the ones that think that no filter is better than a Dirty filter.

I would assume that the type of person that is attempting to remvoe a TC would have a basic knowlege of engine function, heck, if they dont, then most of this is truely dangerous. Keep in mind if they dont use the rope method, and use the hand and wrecnch method, and DONT know their way around an engine, they likely wouldnt take the plug wire off, and as they hit that wrench, it could pop over..

[Offroadkarter]

and see for people who don't know what the compession stroke is then u make have made them buy and redo lotsa stuff.
if someone needs help with a tav just pm me.

If someone doesnt know what "compression stroke" is, they have no business trying removing a Torque Convertor.

hah thats very true. Thats a funny!

[PtownBubba]

I have a Y-Dog 3205,,,, it "jerks" real bad when taking off,,,, I have the front Torque Conv. off, [engine] nothing looks broken or worn, does all the wear and breaks take place it the rear [ jackshaft ] converter. Belt does not look too bad either.

[nvmyengine]

edited
read the post below

[benl]

Erratic engagement is most often caused by the driver clutch that is mounted on the engine crankshaft. The flyweights in the clutch are sticking or the movable sheave is binding on the hub. Knowing how they work may help you determine why yours doesn't. As engine rpm increases, the flyweights push against the outer drum and force the movable sheave (pulley face) toward the engine causing the belt to travel at a greater circumference around the driver clutch. This action in turn causes the belt to force open the driven pulley, allowing the belt to travel at a lesser circumference around the driven pulley.
As engine rpm decreases, the spring in the driven pulley closes the pulley forcing the belt to a greater circumference. This action overcomes the force of the flyweights against the movable sheave and causes the driver clutch pulley to open, allowing the belt to travel a lesser circumference around the driver clutch.
When the engine is at idle, the driver clutch pulley should not engage the sides of the belt. The belt should be loose in the pulley and resting on the bronze bushing around the hub. The bronze bushing serves to protect the belt from rubbing against the spinning hub at idle and also to support a portion of the movable sheave as the sheave moves toward the engine during engagement.
The movable sheave must be able to slide freely on the splined hub without binding. Disassemble the driver clutch and clean away any dirt or lubricant residue using an automotive parts cleaning solvent. Do not use a petroleum based lubricant inside the driver clutch or between the hub and movable sheave. Use a dry, molybdenum based lubricant such as Comet GP-370. The extreme heat and pressure inside the driver clutch chars most petroleum based lubricants. Petroleum based lube also collects dirt which causes increased wear. Graphite lube is better than petroleum lube, but it also eventually leaves a residue that builds up on the parts, causing them to bind and require more frequent cleaning. Experience has taught us that the Comet GP-370 Lubricant (or equivalent) works best.

i got that from the bottom of this page
http://www.gokartsupply.com/tcbelts.htm

I just bought some of the comet stuff and it seems to work good, realy grease will hang on to and trap metal particles which is why they dont recomend using that.
try what they say and see what happens.

(also in regard to the argument we had a while ago about the rope in the cylinder, i used my belt as a "boa" wrench on the oputside of the driver and it held it good enough to remove the bolt, it was easier than puttin the rope in it in my opinion.)

[PtownBubba]

Thanks for the tips,,,,, I will clean up the drive end conv. and look for some dry/moly lubricant. I am sure the grandkids are not real gentle with the "Y-dog", but I do not think anything is broken,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, yet.

[Bugged Out]

I have used the rope in the cylinder trick to change the centi clutch on my chain saw - there is no chance of cutting the rope, unless you are using string. Use a rope that is at least half the diameter of the plug-hole, and changing a clutch can take as little as three minutes.

As mentioned above - make 100% sure that the rope you use is as clean as new. The last thing you need is debris in the cylinder.

I have also used an old dish-towel, stuffed in, with a metal rod, until the cylinder was full. In both cases, the rope or cloth pulls out, undamaged, with only some new creases ironed into it.

Simple trick, used in the field by lumberjacks world-wide.