I figured I would post all of the info I have for the next person who aquires one of these so you won’t get knots on your forehead from pounding the tree! I will update it as I learn even more. The picture is NOT mine. Mine is identical but this one had all the decals. This info is for the Kilowatt Model# 60703X92C only. Hope it helps.
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The Kilowatt Model# 60703X92C
![Image](http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn18/jerseyrick/MurrayKilowatt.jpg)
The Parts List:
http://www.oscar-wilson.com/manual_resu ... =60703x92c
The 6.5 Tecumseh Engine:
http://www.cpdonline.com/695244a.pdf
Torque Converter:
Most of these have a Max-torque converter, however, you must read this note from the Owner of Max-Torque. It also has the proper way of reassembling the driven unit and how to set the pre-load on the spring.
We only make two styles -- inboard mount and outboard mount on the drivens. All of our units are symmetrical because that makes it fool proof when putting on the belt. BUT as with any company Murray did some part mixing between Max-Torque and Comet and they were wrong when they did it. They mixed a series 30 (asymmetrical) with a series 20. Our unit would be considered a series 20.
The people that handle our parts only want to buy complete units because it is easier and they don't have to go into explanation on how to assemble which isn't their job and most have never tried to assemble a unit be it a Max-Torque or a Comet.
The only unit bought by Murray was an outboard mount driven which means the driven unit must float on the jackshaft to stay aligned with the driver unit fixed on the engine. The driver unit is fixed on the crankshaft which is used for either the inboard or outboard driven unit.
The only difference between and inboard mount (spring is wrapped clockwise ) unit and an outboard mount unit (spring is wrapped counter clockwise)is the direction of the spring. The ends of the spring are directly on top of each other on a outboard mount spring while they are 180 degrees from each other on a inboard mount.
We put a 3/4" shaft through the bore with a key in the shaft so the bottom sheave is fixed in place. We put the spring in hole #2 unless you are in a hilly area then I would put it in 3 or 4 so you are in lower gear longer. Once the leg of the spring is between the two ramps you want to place the ramp onto the shaft with the two flats but don't bush it down just yet to lock it in place. Turn the movable sheave CLOCKWISE UNTIL YOU GET INITIAL TENSION ON THE SPRING. THEN MOVE THE SHEAVE ONE MORE RAMP and now you push the zinc ramp down and replace the flat washer and then put on the snap ring. You will need the extra strong snap ring pliers since the snap ring is double thickness.
The Murray part numbers were used by them on both our parts and on Comets parts. They just gave us P/O's for Drivers and Drivens so we don't have any idea what number they assigned to our part.
Murray was pig headed in the way they put that kart together and didn't take outside advice. The distance between the driver and the driven is bigger then any other kart manufacturer. Comet doesn't make a belt large enough and it was a special that Gates made just for Murray. The belts are as rare as chicken teeth.
The cover guard being so large a t/c unit no one had anything like it to match up. I think your best bet would be to go to a sheet metal fabricator and have him build you something. Our plastic guard will not fit because ours is based on a 6 7/8" center to center and I think Murrays was over 11".
James F. Donovan
Max-Torque, LTD.
2180 Corporate Lane
Naperville, IL 60563
Phone: (630) 369-9600
Fax: (630) 369-9686
Website: www.maxtorque.com
Email: jim@maxtorque.com
More on Maintenance:
http://i107.photobucket.com/albums/m314 ... 1219103647
http://i107.photobucket.com/albums/m314 ... 1219105275
http://i107.photobucket.com/albums/m314 ... 1219105570
http://i107.photobucket.com/albums/m314 ... 1219106310
Some of the vendors I used for parts:
http://willardssmallengines.com/go-kart-parts.html
http://shakyparts.com/index.html
http://www.outdoordistributors.com/
That’s it for now. If anyone has any more info on these, PLEASE let me know. Thank you to the people who have supplied me with links and info. Hope it helps…